We left the comfort of our Air B&B at about 9.30am for a relatively short cycling day. A very hilly, windy route out of the city around St Hilaire-St Florent & we were into horsey district and saw our first golf course. A number of new building sections for sale or under construction in the area, too. At one hill top I stopped for a breather & drink to catch sight of skinks playing among the stones – very much like the ones in our garden.
We passed through a number of lovely towns Chenehutte-Treves-Cunault entitled Petites Cites de Caractere strung out along the Loire, many of them Napoleonic in style. Most had private gardens across the road from them, right on the banks of the Loire; a mix of vege gardens, display gardens (with glorious rose displays) or just hang-out gardens with hammocks for relaxing. Some have used their space for parking, which rather interrupted the flow of things. Stopped at Treves to take photo of old church & the roofs of the buildings at all different angles. I got distracted by the chirping noise coming from river’s edge – turned out that there were a heap of frogs all chatting away! Loving nature here!!
The EV6 route is well marked in the area with a white tarmac defining the area for bikes right on the road edge; again French drivers were very considerate of cyclists.
Quite a few people out cycling – waved to a friendly older man cycling towing a wee carriage within which lay his elderly dog enjoying an outing with his mate! Little sights like this make the day. As we were debating which route to take (standing in front of another war memorial) a road bike cyclist pulled over to talk with us – all in French - & suggested the best route to Gennes & things we would see on the way. Very helpful – he spoke clearly & slowly so we got the gist of what he told us.
At Gennes we found the place very busy as a large flea market was on in the park through which the EV6 route went – lots of people making their way to it or leaving with bags full, obviously a popular activity on a Bank Holiday. We were on the road much of the time after that cycling right along the edge of the Loire stopping to look at boats & fishermen in the pretty little towns – so many photos.
Had hoped to catch a glimpse of the dolmens and menhirs mentioned on the map but no signs pointed to them so again we may well have passed by them & not recognised them. Supposedly vestiges of Roman buildings in the area but saw no sign …..!! Plenty of vineyards & another priory. At St Mathurin we crossed the Loire to find ourselves in a vege growing area though we also saw lots of strawberries being grown under glass. Stopped to watch the terns performing aerial acrobatics over the Loire; they swoop down to catch the insects on the water then shoot back up, then down again. Superb!
Noted the number of small ‘free camping’ places available to mobile home holiday makers – seems many Europeans have a mobile home with two bikes on the back & a BBQ ready to go wherever they stop for the night.
On arrival in Les Ponts de Ce we found the place quiet due it being a holiday but as we neared the campground we saw that a ‘hippie’ type bar was open, set up overlooking the Loire & providing hot drinks as well as non-alcoholic & alcoholic drinks. Chilled there until the camp office opened at 3pm, writing postcards & trying to interpret the local paper post Presidential elections. Macron won 64% of the vote, which only pleased a few people really!
Stayed night in campground where we rented a chalet up on stilts. Was lovely – two beds with microwave, fridge, storage cupboard, cutlery, plates etc plus table/chairs. Able to get some washing done & hang it outside in the sunshine. Went for a walk round the town – not a great deal to see & certainly no restaurants open so ended up eating pizza again. Back to the campground to boil water in the microwave for a cuppa …. Grrr!! Shower & toilet block upstairs from laundry at campground but VERY dark at night – I imagine things are a lot more lit during the peak season when they place is full. They run a bar & café then as well as games room. The owners were very helpful & friendly – probably only 7 other couples staying this night.
Tues 9th (66km)
Le Pont-de-Ce’ to Lire’
A late start from the campground as I needed to connect to internet at the office to find address in Lire of the Air B&B in which we were to stay. The internet connection was not stable so very frustrating getting fine details!! Chatted with the German couple who had camped the night just across from us and caught up with them in Bouchemaine where it seems all cyclists stop for supplies at the wee supermarket and bakery across the road.
The ride after that was like cycling along wild beach fonts interspersed with villages like Savennieres & la Possonniere where it looked like one could take boat trips on the Loire. We then crossed a channel of the river onto Ile de Chalonnes where there was obviously lots of recreational activities – the road here was for sharing & every so often it would be one way for cars whilst cyclists could continue unheaded. A bridge was being repaired at Chalonnes-sur-Loire & we were tired so we stopped for lunch of burger & chips at Pelforth café. Yum!
At Mont Jean-sur-Loire we stopped to take some photos of the bridge, the lime & coal mines as well as the Loire Princess paddle boat making its way down river. We stayed pretty much in contact with that boat until St Florent le Vieil where it stopped engines in order to pass under a bridge being repaired before restarting & zooming off a full steam ahead. Some good public art sculptures in this town, too.
Passed through Notre dame de Marillias on toward Lire where we had booked at Air B&B with Martine. We turned off the EV6 route to climb a slight hill into Lire … followed the Air B&B directions to find ourselves at the door of a host who had rejected our inquiry – hmmmm, what to do? As we debated losing the money & cycling in to Ancenis to find a hotel a lovely man asked us if we needed help. It turned out the address provided was wrong but as chance would have it we had stopped to discuss things right out front of Martine’s house! In we went to spend a lovely evening in a warm, comfortable home, hosted by a delightful woman who did her best to help us understand what she offered.
We ate a picnic evening meal of the bread, guacamole & fruit we had bought in Bouchemaine wrote our diaries and slept soundly.
No comments:
Post a Comment