In Freiburg we were Warmshower hosted by Sarah and Sam, and their two delightful children Mijo (4) and Mascha (23mths old), in a mixed neighbourhood of new & old apartment blocks plus semi-detached homes. Without the substantial stands of trees and parks the area would look very depressing but as it was there was life everywhere ..... very Spring-like so many were people out enjoying the open spaces strolling or having picnics and BBQs. We also learned from our hosts that whilst Freiburg os promoted as an eco city that does not mean things are perfect - there is poverty & housing is expensive.
After a leisurely breakfast & fiddling with our bikes gear we headed into town to check out the large daily market (had yummy tofu burger from one stand), the Munster (cathedral), the Schlossgarten and the lovely medieval street layout of lanes and passageways. The work being done to maintain the Munster is quite involved and has been ongoing since it was built, but more particularly since the bombing of WWII.
By late afternoon we were exhausted from all the walking so headed back to the apartment with our fresh Spargle (asparagus) and the handmade bread etc we bought at Glaskiste (no plastic packaging allowed - bring own containers or buy glass ones from them) market. The family were out so we had a quiet meal alone & early to bed.
On Good Friday we took the tram to Vauban, lorded as the most eco part of this eco city and it certainly is impressive in terms of the community spirit being built there and the focus they have on locally produced energy via solar roofs. Thankfully there was at least one cafe open so we were able to slake our thirst & hunger before heading back into town. There we visited two museums (there is a combined pass that is worth getting): The Museum of Nature and Man, which has a permanent display on the history of the natural world & human interaction with it but also had a special Easter exhibition entitled 'Eggs bring happiness' where you could watch a chick hatch or check out those already hatched in the warm room. All displays are interactive & developed for children: we had fun as could understand the German!
On then to the Augustinium Museum specifically to see the exhibition on National Socialism in Freiburg, which tried to answer the questions 'why did so many people in Freiburg turn to the Nazis' and 'what would you do'? It was quite a sobering exhibition ...... coudn't take in anything more so we returned to the apartment. After a spin on lour bikes to check out the route out, we cooked a meal for the family.
So, Freiburg in two days ....... there were many more things we could have done in the city and beyond in the Schwarzwald but it is to France we are headed.
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