On ya bike!

On ya bike!
Cycling Alps to Ocean route, NZ

Sunday, 9 April 2017

Berlin, Berlin! Wünderbar!

It's been cold & damp in Berlin since I arrived but that can't take away from the warmth and hospitality shown by all the locals we have met. Anne, with whom Caroline has been staying since February 4th, knows all the best local cafes and restaurants, and has plenty of hints for interesting places to visit.

On Thursday evening we ate out at a lovely wee Japanese place just round the corner from Anne's apartment where the vegetarian selection was broad and delicious. Friday night saw us accompany Anne and 4 of her neighbours to dinner at an Algerian restaurant called Chez Zola where they produce delightfully fresh tagines and couscous like I've never had before! Worth checking out if you're ever in Berlin http://www.wiezuhauseberlin.com The neighbours were great value; articulate with real interest in world affairs and the history of their own countries (France, Germany & the USA). Between restaurants Caroline & I have managed a few cafes, each with their unique style but ultimately peaceful retreats from the busy-ness of urban life. Loved Bitter Suess as they did scones & jam, which is just what I wanted after the long flights, while returning to Mamsell to partake in their dark chocolate & spices cup was something I had looked forward to. We visited Winterfeldt Schokoladen after the Saturday market where we had hot chocolate to warm up then just had to pop into Tee Tea The for a cup of Darjeeling & a scone as we were just passing it in the next block! The cafes attract locals as well as visitors and each have a great selection of magazines, one being ExBerliner, which is for all the English speakers living in Berlin - really interesting articles and commentaries.
  
Friday afternoon, after a leisurely morning, we checked out the exhibition at the Humbolt Box about Alexander von Humbolt's explorations in South America but most particularly the influence of the cold Humbolt Current that runs off the west coast of Sth America. As a geographer I found the whole exhibition fascinating and appreciated the message about marine pollution that was also part of it. The photo shows Caroline checking out the microplastics that wash up on beaches around the world. Next to the exhibition hall authorites are rebuilding the Prussian palace that used be there but was bombed during WWII & then demolished under the GDR in order to build the Palace of the People or the Palace-of-the-republic

Saturday afternoon we took the bus out to Schloss Britz as we'd seen advertised an exhibition of Hundertwasser art. It was certainly worth the bus ride; he was an extraordinary artist, designer and philosopher who was lucky to escape the Nazi death camps. NZ could make more of his assocaition with our country - an exhibition of his art such as the one we saw today would be  agreat start. The Schloss where the exhibition was held was also worth visiting as the extensive gardens also housed a museum celebrating the ordinary people of Berlin's Neukoelln suburb. We then wanderd along a busy main road to find the Britzer Mühle (windmill); a delightful green space in the midst of apartments. After a busy afternoon a quiet evening in enjoying our own home cooked meal & packing our panniers was necessary.
 

Sunday was a quiet day with most Berliners enjoying a leisurely start as cafes don't open until 10am for brunch. We ate at Lina's just down the road as we'd enjoyed several meals there when we were last in Berlin. The scrambled eggs were perfect as was the beetroot & raspberry drink! Apres brunch we headed off to Charlottenburg Palace and Gardens to enjoy a leisurely stroll & snooze in the sunshine (finally!) Exhausted we just had to be revivied by a cuppa & cake at Cafe La Mouche prior to taking the underground back to Schöneberg where Anne's apartment is located ...... had to stop in at Bitter Suess again just to read the local English newspaper & enjoy another drink in the sun! A delightful Vietnamese meal at Thai Huong on Eisenacher Strs, where we'd been in 2014, rounded off a great day. The veg pho is very good.

As an aside for Chch people - 25+ years after the wall came down rebuilding & road works are a constant for Berliners. Every street seems to have some kind of refurbishment being done or holes being dug so pipes can be replaced or copper wiring for fast internet put in .... and we've hardly seen anyone working at these sites! Cars are parked higglety-pigglety where-ever people can get away with parking and bikes are everywhere but it feels safe as the suburban streets are not race-tracks and the pedestrianised inner city makes moving around the reconstruction manageable. City-making is certainly an ongoing work in progress and one we all need to have patience with.


I had my bike serviced and new 'un-punctureable' tyres put on in readiness for our cycle tour. I was worried that I hadn't put it back together properly after the flights but I apparently did well. The guys at the bike shop (the same place Caroline bought her German made bike) loved checking out my Surly Long-Haul Trucker, telling me to come back any time as they rarely get a chance to play with one. Panniers are packed - we're all ready for hitting the road ..... first stop is Leipzig but by train!

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