ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL
This is a tail of a trail - one of the Nga Haerenga (the Journeys) network of cycle rides to be found throughout Aotearoa-NZ. It all began for us way back in November 2014 (14-17th) when Caroline & I decided to do the first part of the A2O during a long weekend away with friends. It ended in November 2019 (20-22nd) when we completed the ride into Ōamaru. Note: As of November 2019 the trail is not complete with some pretty hairy on-main-road sections between Omarama & Otematata; not recommended for the faint-hearted!
Anyway, let's begin at the beginning ....
November 2014 saw us ensconced in a BookaBach house in Ohau with friends supposedly taking a break from work to kick back & relax but for Caroline & I relaxation often means heading out on our bikes to take in some country. A perfect opportunity whilst we had friends to act as our drop-off & pick-up personnel to do the first part of the A2O ....particularly useful when traversing the hill behind Ohau over into Omarama as it is much easier doing that bit without gear, with just lunch & plenty of water.
Day one: Bremar Rd to Twizel
We decided we wouldn't do the Mt Cook helicopter option as we're tight wallets so instead our friends dropped us off about 10kms up the Braemar Road on the banks of Lake Pukaki to ride into Twizel where they would later pick us up, a journey of approx. 35km. The wind was pretty fierce that day, which was fine when it was behind us driving us on but not nearly as much fun when as a side or head wind! (Just the time when one needs an electric bike). It was as we came round the end of Lake Pukaki (Thar sculpture) that we hit the wind - it buffeted us all the way into Twizel. The last section into Twizel is across the Pukaki Flats Tussock Reserve - a wide expanse across which the wind blows. If sunny, it is intense - wear lots of sunblock. Also help out with pulling wilding pines as cycling this leg.
Day two: Twizel to Ohau village 39kms
This section is a really interesting ride - includes a ride across the Ohau Weir & then along the Ohau canal passed salmon farms and through DOC reserve. The ride along the canal can be a bit hairy when the wind gets up... or that's how I perceived it as I really hate buffeting wind, particularly if there's potential to be blown into the deep canal or into the path of a tourist car!! (Paranoia)
Overall, though I really liked this section and would do this again & again if given the chance as the riding is interesting & the views really delightful round each corner. Some nice little picnic spots along the way, too as well as well positioned loos!
Day three: Ohau village to Omarama 45kms
What a fun day! On looking back on it I am pleased we didn't have to carry our camping equipment etc on this leg. It really is a good leg to do with support i.e. friends to meet you at the end and take you back to a good meal & comfy bed.
That said, this is a wonderful section with stunning views over Lake Ohau with a fun ride down to Ben Dhu station & into Omarama.
A lunch stop at the Quailburn historic woolshed site; really interesting & worth spending the time looking around & reading the information boards.
As pass through Ribbonwood Station the infestation of wilding pines is noticeable. One thing to note is the gravel road as one heads toward the Ahuriri River & SH8 - if recently laid as it was when we cycled it, then it makes cycling bloody hard.
Once in Omarama we had time to relax in the hot tubs whilst we waited for friends to pick us up.
By 2019 we decided we needed to complete the A2O cycle ride so booked a holiday from our respective work places for a week in November and organised transport with Trail Adventures from Oamaru to Omarama for Wednesday 20th Nov.
We travelled down to Oamaru on the Tuesday, staying at Empire Backpackers which was pretty quiet at that time in the season. Friendly staff, bike storage & free parking whilst we were away cycling as long as we returned to stay there. After a lovely afternoon wandering around the town checking out the tourist spots we checked over our bikes, re-packed our gear & ate our pre-prepared meal before heading off to bed.
Day Four: Omarama to Waitangi Camp (45km)
The pick up from Scott's Brewery on Wed. morning went smoothly. By about 11am we were in Omarama loading up our bikes & preparing to cycle off but not before our first cuppa stop of the day at the Oasis Bar & Cafe. Once fortified we set off down the Waitaki Valley on the off-road trail beside SH83 - good surface & easy riding. Good to be able to take the time to check out the places of interest along the way such as 'The Hole in the Middle' where the story of Te Maiharoa, a Ngai Tahu prophet is told. In 1877, he led his people to set up a settlement on the banks of what is now Lake Benmore to assert their ownership over the high country. In the region of Chains Hills we noticed the increase in irrigated land - the colour of the Mackenzie country is changing.
We stopped for a look-see at Sailor's Cutting as a colleague, Debbie E has a caravan permanently there. Could imagine it being very busy in Summer. There we donned our Hi-Viz for the on road leg over the Otematata Saddle - not for the faint-hearted as we were buffeted by big trucks; when we spied an entry into the not yet completed off road section of the trail we decided to get onto it rather than risk our necks any further. The road would have been fine if there had been a sealed shoulder on which to ride but it was gravel or non existent in places. The nearly completed trail was much better but we still had to negotiate road bridges etc.; it will be a stunning section once completed (note to self - return to this bit). Lovely off-road descent into Otematata where we stopped at the Hungry Hydro food truck for a cuppa to go with our afternoon tea.
Turned off onto Loch Laird Rd toward Benmore Dam where we got some rain, which had been threatening for some time. Sheltered inside the big display pen-stock to wait for the shower to pass then cycled/pushed up the incline in order to cross the dam. I hadn't visited the dam since 1981 so was impressed to the see the change in the vegetation growth, and the quiet of the place. Not many people around ... a handful of foreign tourists and a group of friends on hire e-bikes. Once over the dam & on a bit we stopped to refuel with a cuppa & nuts before pushing on to find a camp site for the night.
We found one at Waitangi reserve on the banks of Aviemore ($20/night/per tent), getting the tent up just before a hailstorm passed through. As we could see the weather was coming in we opted to pitch our tent in the lee of a caravan - there were plenty to choose from & very few occupied at that time. We were pretty close to the toilet block, which was where we needed to cook as that was the only shelter around. With an increase in cycle tourists Waimate District Council would be well advised to provide some better facilities at some of these camping spots so cycle campers have a dry, wind-free space in which to cook and perhaps a few picnic tables so they can sit on something other than the ground. We made do with a child's table we found under a tree by the caravan & our raincoats spread on the damp grass. By the time we had cooked our meal the rain had ceased & the sun had come out with some heat! We had a good old mosey around the lake edge before snuggling into our bags for the night.
Day Five: Waitangi Camp to Duntroon (43km)
After a good sleep we managed to prepare our breakfast & pack up just before the campground wardens made their rounds. They drove over to talk with us, to check we had our payment receipt, and were most concerned that we may have been sleeping inside someone's awning...... I didn't find the interaction very friendly or welcoming!
Anyway, once the official stuff was out the way we set off toward Kurow, briefly checking out the Deep Stream track before passing over the Aviemore Dam. Great to see more stories of Ngai Tahu's presence in the landscape recorded by the dam at a place called Mahi Tikumu.
The trail took us onto SH83 until we reached the deserted Waitaki Dam village where we stopped a while to check out the stone workers cottages. Massive roadworks going on so we lead the traffic out of the village when it was our turn on the one-way system until we spied the (incomplete) off-road trail & made our way back on to it. It took us up hill, giving us great views over the Waitaki River and of the irrigation pipeline that has caused some dissension in the area. This part of the trail has only recently been completed but it will take some serious maintenance over time as already breaking away in places. Trails like this need ongoing investment; they provide safe recreation spaces for locals but also provide enjoyable & interesting rides for tourists. The more people getting out of their vehicles & onto bikes during their time touring the better their experiences of places will be. (We bought A2O trail merchandise as a way of support)
Had our lunch in Kurow & even able to get our thermos filled at the Wild Sage Cafe - very friendly staff. We checked out the National Museum of Social Security - I love these quirky little museums as they have wee gems of local history one doesn't learn about at school or uni.
Onward we went to Duntroon - a really lovely ride through vineyards and wetlands following in some places the Waitaki Haul Road with fords across the Otiake and Otekaieke Rivers - I wouldn't dare cross either when the river was in flood...... such fun on the day we rode this section though! As we'd already visited the Takiroa rock art site on a previous trip we didn't stop to look this time as keen to get into Duntroon before the museum closed. Really loved the ride through the Duntroon Wetlands before entering the township.
We just loved Duntroon! The woman at the Vanished World Centre was delightful, offered us a tour of the centre as well as a cup of tea. We certainly learnt a great deal about the geology and fossil history of the area in our hour's visit. We loved the fact that the area is to be recognised as as Geopark - the Waitaki Whitestone Geopark.
After our time at the museum we found the Duntroon Domain where we camped for the night alongside young tourists from many other parts of the world. ($20/night for 2). A pleasant sunny evening spent chatting to some of these travellers both at the domain & at the local pub, the Duntroon Hotel (now offering themselves as Cycle Stays as well).
Day Six: Duntroon to Oamaru (54km)
The day dawned warm if a little overcast. After our usual cereal breakfast & preparation of thermos for our lunch stop we were on our way.
First stop was the Maerewhenua rock art site just out of town - a quick sprint across the road for a look-see then on to Elephant Rock but what a mission getting there! We had a strong side wind (gale!) as we cycled along a ridge overlooking a farm. That wind blew the irrigation water toward us .... most unpleasant as I think it was effluent! Seemed to be a bit stupid irrigating in such strong wind particularly as the paddock we looked down upon was sodden anyway!
Whilst Caroline toured the Elephant Rocks site I had a chat to a chap in an EV 4x4 who had done a lot of cycle touring - swears by ebikes nowadays. I sauntered down to join Caroline but the wind was making my eyes water so after a quick photo I sheltered under the information panel.
I really enjoyed the ride once we had the wind at our back or were sheltered from it. The bit after Prydes Gully Rd into Island Cliff with stunning limestone escarpments is pretty special ...we checked out the Anatini Fossil Whale (more here in NZ Geo). There is a bit of a grunt up out of the gully but view is worth it, then its through more farmland up (more irrigators going!) to Cants Rd where we had a breather to check out the planting done by school groups. There's a shelter at the viewpoint but at that stage a group of ebikers arrived so we left.
We dropped down Peaks Rd eventually finding a shaded picnic spot for lunch & watched the group of ebikers we'd seen earlier, all 65+ fair motor downhill into the entrance to the Rakis Railway tunnel. When we eventually descended to the tunnel we were pleased to have lights as it is definitely dark in there!
The drop down to Windsor was fun! Downhill all the way following the old Tokarahi railway line - woohoo! We just had to stop for a cuppa at God's Old House - a coffee/tea shop in an old church ... found the ebikers ensconsed!
Back on an off road trail to Enfield where we again stopped ... just have to sample the places where food & liquid refreshments are on offer!! A delightfully friendly host greeted us so we ordered a muffin each a well as cold drinks. The Fort Enfield pub has a really community feel to it & is a new enterprise by hosts who want to make it the centre of their community but also offer a warm welcome to all the cyclists tackling the A2O.
Our final port of call before heading to the hostel for a shower & some RnR, was to get the obligatory photo inside the frame down at the water's edge in the Victorian precinct.
We'd do this ride again ... or at least the parts not completed whe we rode it.
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