To Nanaimo

After leaving the ferry at Mill Bay we drove the scenic route to Nanaimo - or at least it was scenic until we had to turn onto the main highway after Chemainus in order to get to Nanaimo.

First stop in the pouring rain was a bakery in Cowichan Bay called True Grain, where we picked up some treats for later & a cheese twist to nibble in the car. A really friendly store with a wide selection of locally milled flours. Had hoped the cheese store next to it would be open but it was still a little early so neither it nor pottery shop were open.

The coastal route through to Duncan was delightful - undulating road framed by Autumnal coloured trees lashed by the wind & rain. We had hoped to stop to see the totems at Duncan but the rain was hosing down so we passed on through. Still the above link gives one great information about each,plus a photo.
By the time reached Chemainus the rain had stopped so a good chance to use the washrooms before checking out some of the murals the town is known for. Dad & I had visited the town in 1989 and I remembered it well. Only got to seea couple in detail as the skies opened again so we hopped back in the car for a drive around the streets - saw other tourists on a walking tour, brave souls that they were! Still, in this day & age one doesn't even need to leave one's armchair to see such art as can be seen here in mural town.

 

 

As we passed through Ladysmith we could see heaps of new housing being built as well as lots of logs bobbing around in the bay waiting to be floated down to the mills. Interesting to note that Ladysmith Council has been working with its community to develop a sustainability vision - particularly important in a town that is growing rapidly beyond its pretty, historic centre (one of the fastest growing centre in BC; 24% increase btwn 2001-2011). Lots of lovely, well-kept colonial style houses near the old town while many of the newer ones reflected that style, as big but on less land (quite close together).  An aside: Ladysmith is on the 49th parallel and, if the 49th had become the strict boundary between Canada & the USA, may not have been built if history had played out differently.

And, then we were back on the Trans-Canada highway heading into Nanaimo. Stopped to look at the petroglyphs just outside the town - petroglyph park.

 

 

On the way in, B&J showed us where Nicole and Jesse used to live & talked about some of the highlights of the Nanaimo before we went to Mon Petit Choux for a delicious lunch.  All too soon it was time to bid them thanks & farewell. We then took our bags round the corner to The Painted Turtle where booked in & freshened up.

As the weather was unpredictable we decided against spending an hour or two over on Saysutshun-Newcastle Island - the last return ferry was at 2.45pm - tho' it certainly sounded like a great provincial park to spend time in on a fine day. So the afternoon was spent walking round the waterfront (in between showers), visiting the art gallery, a museum, the old town and two cafes - Powerhouse Living for a raw vege smoothie & Tea on the Quay for a Nanaimo Bar served with a smile. We particularly liked the art & sculptures along the waterfront, the many bunnies enjoying freedom & the improving weather.

 

                              

Wasn't so keen on the artists we saw as their styles didn't resonate with me. The museum was a good introduction to Nanaimo's First Nation, Snuneymuxw, & settler history - hadn't realised coal mining (under the sea & islands) was so important as only knew about the lumber industry. [City of 90,000+  and  Wikipedia] A big cruise ship was in so some facilities were open that normally wouldn't be at this time of year and there were plenty of tourists on the streets. We were asked a couple of times if we were from the cruise ship!

HBC Bastion - to defend against the Americans

Inside the HBC Bastion

Bathtub racing is popular

Loved the old shop shelving

 

 

We had thought of taking a boat across to Protection Island, as Bruce suggested, for dinner but decided to stay on shore as so many great eating places to choose from near our hostel.  Had an early dinner at Gabriel's Gourmet Cafe - delicious healthy food. Between us we had a soup, entree & main, which was plenty then returned to the Turtle to read up on NZ politics, blog & write p/cs.

Then, at 8.30pm, Caroline says, 'Let's go out for dessert!' so out we went round the corner to 'Modern Cafe' for a Creme Brulee & a cuppa. The rain had stopped & it was a mild evening......