Scotland Day 1-8

July 25-31
The P&O Larne to Cairnryan ferry was a comfortable, easy-on, easy-off journey taking about 2 hours. The sailing was calm and we passed it chatting with a couple of Northern Irish lads off for a 6-day cycling excursion around the islands of Scotland. They were carrying very little gear & had all their accommdation booked so were expecting to average 60-80 miles per day; we felt very lame beside them but we did have at least 30 years on them!

Once in Cairnryan we changed into our cycle shorts, bid farewell to the lads who were heading north while we headed south to Stranraer from where we had decided we would catch a train to Ayr rather than spend 2 extra days cycling in the predicted rain to get to the islands. Train booked we duly cycled into Stranraer town for a bite to eat & a look-see round the Castle of St John. Once home to powerful Lairds and later the town prison.

We caught the 3pm train to Ayr & enjoyed the speedy trip through the Dumfries countryside - were astonished by the many wind turbines dotting the hillsides with plantation forests in between. Wondered whether there had been concerns about iconic landscapes being ruined by turbines - we rather thought they had a rather elegant starkness about them with the darkening clouds playing behind them.

Once at Ayr we found the NCR 7 and followed it all the way to Irvine where we decided to call it a day after failing to get accommodation in Ardrossan which we had hoped to reach. The cycle route took us along the coast with sweeping views over to Arran, passed a number of golf courses like Prestwick, Troon & Gailes as well alongside Prestwick Airport (seemed like an easy airport to cycle in & out of) and through the Shewalton Sandpits Wildlife Reserve between Troon & Kilmarnock before turning back toward the coast and passing the smelly old Caledonian Paper Mill & some other industrial sites and entrance to the beach reserve that took us into Irvine. We saw lots of rabbits on our way - the area was bunny heaven & most didn't seem too worried by human activity, hopping out of thw ay at the very last minute as we whizzed by.

Anyway, on deciding to stay in Irvine we checked out a lovely funky cafe for dinner - delicious! Though as we sat outside where we could see our bikes it did get rather chilly so we didn't hang around for desserts even though they all looked yummy.
On we went to check into our hotel Annfield House, changed then went out for a walk around the ruined Seagate castle and the shopping centre in behind. Mary, Queen of Scots visited the castle in 1297 - a plaque commemorates that visit & tells a little more of the story of the castle. Castle street is now made up of quaint listed houses but leads up into the sad looking main street & shopping centre of Irvine. The quality of architecture sadly went down hill in the 20thC - the shopping centre & council service centre is a monstrosity, as you can see in the photos. At the time of evening we were wandering around there were few people on the street & those that were tended to be either 'down & outs' or 'louts' pushing & shoving each other for a bit of fun! The sunset was nice though .......

Back in the warmth of our hotel we luxuriated in a bubble bath, read the paper & tried to update our blog but the wifi at the hotel was worse than useless & my own mobile wifi kept being 'taken out' by theirs! Frustrating!

Day 2: Irvine to Lochranza
We awoke to pouring rain! It rained solidly through a desultory breakfast & refused to cease before we set off! On with ALL our wet weather gear. We didn't have to go far to begin with as I needed to call into the 3 phone shop to top-up my wifi & while I was doing that the rain eased off a little.

We found our cycle route out of Irvine in behind our hotel, following the river toward Saltcoats & Ardrossan passing through bog land, beside yet another golf course and under the A78 (route completely flooded here so my feet especially got very wet) and through Kilwinning. Stopped to read some interpretation panels about the dune system alongside which ran a rail line - the line divided the very large Sandylands holiday park from the beach - when it started to pour again. The numerous dog-walkers along this patch of cycle-way did not look too impressed by the weather!

Not long after this we turned onto a promenade taking us through Saltcoats to the port at Ardrossan. The wind had really got up making cycling quite difficult - a couple of gusts nearly had me off as they caught my luggage side-on. Bot towns looked as if they could have been interesting to visit (castle on the hill) but with the weather as it was we just headed straight to the ferry terminal & caught the 1230 across to Arran.

The sailing was on a large ship & quite pleasant, taking about an hour to get across. Once on Arran, in Brodick (the main town), we checked out the tourist info centre just as the skies opened yet again! We took refuge at Fiddlers music & bar for lunch - lovely hot soup & a roll - then popped across to the Coop supermarket to buy in supplies for our YHA stay.

By the time we were ready to leave for Lochranza the rain has stopped and we were able to enjoy a comfortable 14 mile ride along the coast & up over Glen Chalmadale (653') & down into Lochranza. The villages along the way were gorgeous particularly Corrie and Sannox, with fishing boats nestled in the wee harbour and white homes strung out like beads along the coast.

                        
The climb was pretty exhuasting as it was long & constant with a sharp wind blowing up over the hill off the Sound of Bute - we looked down into glens with burns or streams rushing down from the forested hills. Once at the top we could see some of the buildings in Lochranza and the land over the sounds from Arran. The descent was relatively fast though we had to keep an eye on the many potholes; it was a time like this that I wish I had a Go-Pro to capture the mix of wild and bucolic scenery.

We found the YHA, got ourselves booked in & were delighted by the lovely ensuite double room with a window that overlooked the estuary. Perfect end to our day. After dinner we took a short stroll around the village & along the coast to the ferry terminal - there we met the long afeared midges! Back we went to the hostel & never went out again without Smidge to warn them off!

Day 3: Lochranza
This was predicted to be the most settled weather-wise so we decided to spend the day cycling round to Blackwaterfoot & back again, stopping to visit the Machrie Moor Stone Circles on our way.
It was a delightful morning despite having a head wind much of the way. Quite a bit of the roadway had been re-tarmaced relatively recently so we enjoyed a smooth ride for some of it - a rarity. We loved the village of Catacol with it's row of white houses called 'The 12 Apostles' and delighted in the wonderful community tearoom at Machrie where the cakes & scones are to die for. We two and another cyclists were the only visitors in the morning  but when we returned in the afternoon (ostensibly to shelter from the downpour) it was packed.

Just on from the tearooms are the Machrie Moor Stone Circles where we spent a good hour exploring - the sun even came out for a time whilst we were there. I am forever amazed as to how Neolithic people created these edifices. At Machrie it is determined that they had an entire community farming in the area, in a climate quite different from that existing today.

We were disappointed by Blackwaterfoot - not much there except a large hotel, a PO, greasy-spoon cafe (had a potato scone & egg sandwich there) & a gift shop. Needless to say, we didn't stay long in the town. Our cycle back was equally lovely until Machrie when the rain began again - heavily - and although we hoped it would cease whilst we hung out in the cafe, it didn't so the latter part of the ride was in off again/on again rain.

We dried off at the hostel, made our dinner (kitchen was busy & noisy) then found a quiet space to read the paper before heading to bed. We both experienced a restless night's sleep for varied reason.

Day 4: Arran
Due to the appalling weather forecast we opted to take the bus into Brodick Castle then onto Brodick town to mooch around the shops. Had hoped to complete a circuit of the island by bus but fewer buses run in the holiday than during school-time and the drivers couldn't guarantee that the last bus going in one direction would get to Blackwaterfoot in time to meet with the bus that would take us to Lochranza. Grrr!! Still with the rain as heavy as it was we could see very little out the windows anyway!

Enjoyed our walk around Brodick Castle and Country Park and was quite happy that the castle was closed for renovations. At this stage in the morning the rain was holding off so we saw the gardens in a good light. Some wonderfully healthy specimens of Ti Kouka, harakeke and toi toi in the gardens.           

In the town we picked up some more supplies from the supermarket as well as some wee bottles of Scottish Gin. The bus back to Lochranza was full to over-flowing with many heading to the YHA. Once at the hostel we went for a walk as the rain had stopped - we went round to try & see Hutton's Uncomformity but the pathway became far too muddy & slippery that we gave up & contented ourselves with marvelling at the volcanic rocks on the coast. We then noticed a common seal playing amongst the rocks so we watched her/him for quite some time - quite made our day.

                

We then returned to the YHA, cooked our dinner before heading to the lounge where I enjoyed a gin or two with a group from Edinburgh. A great night's sleep was had after that. :-)

Day 5: Lochranza to Tarbert
Caught the ferry around 10am having bought lovely sandwiches from the The Sandwich Station. Chatted to an Aussie woman cycle tourist (probably in her 70s) who comes every year to stay on Arran and cycle around. The rain was holding off but as we ascended the hill out of Portavadie the first spits appeared ....... but didn't pour until we reached the other side. The ride was lovely as it passed through farm & moor land with views over the lochs & sea - it would have been picture perfect with a little sun! We played tag with the Aussie cyclist all the way into Tarbert where she went straight to her accommodation whilst we found a cafe in which to dry out as little & have a cuppa and some soup.

Being warmed up a little & the time having passed enough for us to make our way to our Air B&B we did so. Paul received us warmly & locked our bikes away in his shed. He introduced us to his wife, Sheila whom he looks after fulltime as she has MS, and then we went up to our ensuite room to shower & tidy up.
As the rain had stopped we went out for a lovely long walk around the loch & up to the castle ruin. Enjoyed viewing the art works and the well-fenced orchard the community had developed. On our walk round the coast we were watched by, and watched in turn, a ferret who obviously lives amongst the rocks & ferns.

                             

                            

We called into a local pub for a drink, chatted to a retired woodwork teacher (govt, cuts, changing curriculum etc as well as Tarbet over time) & read the paper. Back at the B&B we ate our Lochranza sandwiches & caught up on wifi correspondence.

Day 6: Tarbert to Glendaruel
Paul had the table all set up when we came down for our 8.30am breakfast & insisted on making me scrambled eggs, which I must say I enjoyed. Just as we were finishing we were joined by the young couple who had booked the other room - they were very quiet & kind of shy.

We retired to our room to finish packing & got away around 9.40am as we were to catch the 10.15 ferry to Portavardie. The ferry ride was uneventful as the loch was calm with no rain - cost approx. 5GBP for the two of us. Once across we waited for the cars to disperse before we set off up the hill passed the relatively new lodge and spa and across open fen land. At Millhouse the rain came in just as we turned onto the B8000 toward Kames and Tighnabruaich ....... due to the intensity of the rain as we came down hill onto the coast we missed the turn off to the actual village of Tighnabruaich (which we'd been told not to miss) and only realised our mistake when we'd cycled up a long hill & could overlook the town.

The A3008 road is an unusal one as it is attractive for day trippers & tourists for the spectacular views but it also becomes a single lane road as it descends down into the Ormidale valley where a  series of lodges on the old Argyll Estate are located. It suddenly felt very much as if we did a time-shift back to the early part of 20thC.
I have to admist to really enjoying the fast & curvy descent after the hard slog up the hill - luckily there were not too many cars on the road & those that were tended to look out for us ...... couldn't miss us with our flashing red lights & safety vests!

We turned left onto a main road to make our way up to the campground, stopping in at the Clachan of Glendaruel to visit the carved medieval stones at Kilmodan Church
We had hoped to have a bite to eat & to warm up at the pub but it was closed, sadly so we biked on to the campground - Glendaruel Caravan park - where we had booked a bothie. Nobody was there to book us in so we sat under cover to eat what lunch  we had until the proprietor arrived at 3.30pm. The bothie was cute - very cosy with all we needed & the camp shop provided the extra provisions we wanted. The rain continued on & off for much of the afternoon - I only managed a 40 min walk (was longer as got chatting to a woman & her two dogs about cycle travelling) before the next downpour.

A quiet night reading & writing postcards as no internet connection available.

Day 7: Glendaruel to Dunoon
We woke quite late - 8.50 - unheard of but it was such a quiet place that there was no noise to wake us up! The dry morning lasted only a moment as the skies opened again whilst we were eating breakfast (not our usual fruit full one) and essentially it didn't stop raining until early evening except for a brief respite around 1pm when we stopped for lunch at a greasy spoon cafe on the outskirts of Dunoon.

The ride would have been wonderful if it hadn't been raining the whole way as it took us up hill & down dale around the top of Loch Striven then turning into Glen Lean where we cycled along many single track roads pulling into passing places occasionally to let cars pass us. Luckily this B836 road was not too busy but as it is a timber road we did have a few logging trucks pass us. We curved round two mountain peaks - Cruach Nan Cuilean (432) and Scorach Mor (601) - and through the wee village of Clachaig. I found my energy levels waning with the constant rain & wind so ended up pushing up a couple of hills - it felt like all my gear was heavier and perhaps so sodden as all was by the rain!

We turning off finally onto A815 into the town of Sandbank then into Dunoon via the coastal road where we met the full force of the wind. We stopped for some food as we'd both run out of oomph but Black of Dunoon Cafe was not a cafe to write home about! I had a fried egg and tattie scone  in a roll washed down by a strong dose of tea!

Once we arrived in Dunoon we pushed our bikes through the town, found the Post Office (always too many postcards to send) then, just as the skies opened into a downpour, we made our way to the Castle House Museum. As we were locking our bikes & gear the lovely curator came out & offered a safe lock up place out of the rain so we could visit without worries. The museum gives a history of Dunoon starting with a video of 19thC postcards set against recent photos from the same vantage point - a pity some of the lovely 19thC buildings have been torn down & replaced with concrete monstrosites ....... and some of the recent photos didn't hide the litter left on the promenade or parkland. Loved the fact that in earlier times people wandered along the streets without fear of being run over by cars .... just had to watch out for horse-drawn cabs.

The rest of the museum was dedicated to the Celtic history of the area, Robbie Burns' love 'Highland Mary', ferries and the Victorian age.  All very well done on the smell of an oily rag, and just enough to take in during a wet afternoon.

By 4pm we were outside our Air B&B just as the sun started to appear so with key retrieved from under the mat, we settled ourselves in. We warmed up with a shower and a cuppa before sorting the washing that needed doing. With the washing on we headed out to the supermarket to purchase foodstuffs for our evening meals and extras for breakfast (our host had left plenty of food but not fruits). Walked back along the now sunny waterfront checking out where we will catch the ferry on Wednesday morning.

Back at the B&B we hung our washing up, prepared our meal & watched TV - interesting to watch BBC Alba, the Scottish language medium channel though eventually we changed to BBC2 to watch one of the Gay Britainnia shows entitled Man in the Orange Shirt. A relaxing evening 'in'.

Day 8: Dunoon day
It was raining steadily when we awoke. Decision made - we would NOT cycle out to Benmore - The Royal Edinburgh Botanic Gardens @ Benmore - BUT take the bus instead. We breakfasted heartily, donned our wet weather gear & set off along the promenade to the exposed bus station to await our 8.50am bus that would take us to the entrance of Benmore.

We arrived at just after 9am to find that they don't open until 10am so we trotted off (the rain had ceased!) to explore what we could by oursleves, ignoring the notices that warm people they must have a sticker showing that they have paid an entrance fee.  Our walk took us through a pine forest & up a trail that lead to a stone shelter, the highest viewpoint in the gardens. Photos duly taken we headed back down to the entrance for teh 10am opening only to find that we had already paid an entrance fee in the bus tickets we had purchased. Yay! Easy as that but now we had our necessary stickers to place on our clothing as we wandered through the rest of the park.

It is an extensive garden with a large number of rhododendrons in it - would have been spectactularly colourful in Spring - as well as 4 distinct counry plantings (Chilean, Tasmanian, Bhutanese and Japanese) and a marvellous fernery. The views from the Chilean & Bhutanese areas were lovely; had it been sunny we would have had much clearer views across the Firth of Clyde. I really loved the different bark patterns on the tree varieties and the varied nature of the ferns on display.

By about 1230 we'd done our dash so headed inside to the cafe for lunch - everything came with hot chips - and to avoid the downpour that started just as we reached the gates. The bus back didn't go until 2.11pm so we had plenty of time to eat & digest, and write postcards. The sun came out for a brief moment when we went to stand at the bus stop but, of course, as the bus was late it began to rain again ..... and it absolutely poured the whole way back as we rode the bus into central Dunoon.

We then mooched around the shops stopping to chat with the guys in the Independence for Scotland shop (bought a couple of memoriabilia), checked out the exceptionally good bookshop, Bookpoint, then the well stocked Eco Health Store where I found SLEEPYTIME tea - Yay!! Bought a Guardian on way back to our AirB&B so spent rest of afternoon reading the paper & snoozing while the sun played tag with the rain. Prepared another lovely meal, watched some TV, packed up & went to bed for a good night's sleep again.